Trans-Siberian Part 15: Day 4 on the big train - Lake Baikal to Mongolia

I had a better night's sleep but I was still woken up by a commotion at around 4.30am - although not woken up so much that I felt I needed to get up and have a look. The train has stopped at Irkutsk and filled up with passengers! All of the cabins in our carriage are now fully occupied - the Chinese guards who were living in them have disappeared and we have a variety of nationalities standing in the corridor and looking out of the window.

I got back to sleep with the intention of waking up at 7am to see the journey around Lake Baikal, but Xavier knocked on our door at 6am saying we'd reached the lake, so I wandered out into the corridor bleary-eyed to see how it was looking first thing in the morning. I'm so glad he did because within 60 seconds I was taking photos like this:

As we journeyed around I was surprised to see exactly how much ice was still on the lake. Quite a lot. In fact more and more as we rode around it.

Lake Baikal is meant to be where you lean out of the train to take the obligatory "train going round the bend" shots.

There seemed to be more towns too, although it was at this point that my phone with its Russian Beeline SIM card stopped finding 3G. I'd managed to get it for about two-thirds of the journey from Moscow.

Into Ulan Ude at lunchtime, on a mission to find the world's biggest Giant Head of Lenin, which is only about 200 yards from the station. It's quite a spectacle, over 25 feet high and well worth seeing. Unfortunately we misinterpreted the map and ended up leaving the station on the north side instead of the south side, and then spent 15 minutes running around with a camera in hand looking for a head that wasn't there. I grabbed a few pictures of the town, including an equally-impressive solid gold statue of Lenin (well it's probably solid gold but it might just be gold paint).

There's also a funky music and drama sculpture on the building behind Lenin which I think I missed when I took the photo.

Again the Chinese guards were ferrying everyone back onto the train after 20 minutes even though it didn't leave until dead on schedule, 35 minutes after arriving. This is very annoying.

Almost 50km up the track I grabbed a photo of a level crossing. There must be hundreds if not thousands of these on the line, and every single one of them is manned. (Womaned. It's always a woman).

After this we followed the shore of another lake, Gusinoye Ozero (Goose Lake). This might be the last glimpse of water before more steppes and desert.

As the train was leaving the lake I held my camera out of the window, shut my eyes and clicked just once hoping for the best. I really should do that more often.



Next:     Trans-Siberian Part 16: crossing the Russia/Mongolia border
Previous:     Trans-Siberian Part 14: Day 3 on the big train - Tayga to Nizhneudinsk

Last updated 01 June 2013 12:54

A bird

I think I'm meant to do an "About" here but I think you'd be more interested in seeing a random seagull.

Trans-Siberian

  • Introduction
  • Part 1: Billericay to Cologne
  • Part 2: Warsaw
  • Part 3: Kiev
  • Part 4: The train to Moscow
  • Part 5: The Ostankino Tower
  • Part 6: Around VDNZh park
  • Part 7: Museum of Soviet Arcade Machines
  • Part 8: The Moscow Metro
  • Part 9: Moscow city centre
  • Part 10: Random Moscow
  • Part 11: Leaving for Siberia
  • Part 12: Moscow to Perm
  • Part 13: Yekaterinburg to Novosibirsk
  • Part 14: Tayga to Nizhneudinsk
  • Part 15: Lake Baikal to Mongolia
  • Part 16: Crossing the Russia/Mongolia border
  • Part 17: Exploring Ulaanbaatar
  • Part 18: A great big statue of Ghengis Khan
  • Part 19: The Zaisan Monument
  • Part 20: Beers from many lands

  • Gigs

  • 08.12.2015 Shed Seven, Hatfield
  • 27.11.2015 Vile Electrodes, Brentwood
  • 07.11.2015 Asylums, Southend
  • 30.10.2015 Baby Blues, Brentwood
  • 02.10.2015 Fireworks, Harringay
  • 25.09.2015 Lydia Lucy, Brentwood
  • 28.08.2015 Dani Clay, Brentwood
  • 24.07.2015 Indietracks
  • 17.07.2015 Latitude Festival
  • 11.07.2015 Brownstock Festival
  • 11.07.2015 Southend Village Green
  • 26.06.2015 The Who, Hyde Park
  • 20.06.2015 Blur, Hyde Park
  • 13.06.2015 British Sea Power, Camden
  • 06.06.2015 1000 Yard Stare, Charing Cross
  • 03.06.2015 Madness, Great Leights
  • 31.05.2015 Los Endos, Hornchurch
  • 29.05.2015 Juke, Brentwood
  • 28.05.2015 Pop Will Eat Itself, Shoreditch
  • 24.05.2015 Ride, Camden
  • 24.04.2015 Kaleidophone, Brentwood
  • 27.03.2015 Finding Miranda, Brentwood
  • 13.03.2015 Francesca Priest, Brentwood
  • 13.02.2015 Kaiser Chiefs, Greenwich
  • 06.02.2015 Ryan Green, Brentwood
  • 31.01.2015 Sulk - Hackney
  • 23.01.2015 Velvet Tree, Brentwood
  • 11.01.2015 Bis, Pentonville
  • 19.12.2014 High/Low, Southend
  • 12.12.2014 Break For Cover, Brentwood
  • 28.11.2014 For The Love Of Bob, Brentwood
  • 22.11.2014 Carter USM, Brixton
  • 31.10.2014 Band From Co Hell, Brentwood
  • 28.10.2014 Steve Hackett, Westcliff
  • 20.10.2014 Hafdis Huld, Charing Cross
  • 11.10.2014 Stillmarillion, Ruislip
  • 26.09.2014 D'Ukes, Brentwood
  • 13.09.2014 Flag Factory Festival, Brentwood
  • 03.09.2014 Kate Bush, Shepherd's Bush
  • 30.08.2014 Brownstock Festival
  • 08.08.2014 Killing Jimmy, Brentwood
  • 20.07.2014 Brentwood Festival
  • 19.07.2014 Latitude Festival
  • 18.07.2014 Juke, Brentwood
  • 20.06.2014 Pete Brame, Brentwood
  • 30.05.2014 Bow Flats, Brentwood
  • 25.05.2014 Pop Will Eat Itself, Islington
  • 23.05.2014 Arctic Monkeys, Finsbury Park
  • 14.05.2014 Wolf Alice, Cambridge
  • 30.04.2014 Yes, Westcliff
  • 25.04.2014 Ordinary Noise, Brentwood
  • 19.04.2014 Darling Buds, Charing Cross
  • 28.03.2014 Mannequins, Brentwood
  • 26.03.2014 Menswear, Shepherd's Bush
  • 23.03.2014 Republica, Islington
  • 14.03.2014 Franz Ferdinand, Camden
  • 28.02.2014 Ryan Green, Brentwood
  • 27.02.2014 Republica, Balham
  • 03.02.2014 Maximo Park, Bethnal Green
  • 31.01.2014 Scarlet Echo, Brentwood
  • 22.11.2013 Nedstock, Shepherd's Bush
  • 18.11.2013 Pub Serv Bcasting, Cambridge
  • 04.11.2013 Art Brut, Tunbridge Wells
  • 01.11.2013 Steve Hackett, Cambridge
  • 23.10.2013 Suede, Westcliff
  • 27.09.2013 Primitives, Southend
  • 21.09.2013 Duckworth Lewis Method, SB
  • 14.09.2013 The Flag Factory Festival
  • 06.09.2013 Jonny Cola/A Grades, Harlow
  • 25.07.2013 Bis, Pentonville
  • 19.07.2013 Latitude Festival
  • 17.07.2013 Taffy, Camden
  • 05.07.2013 Brentwood Festival
  • 26.06.2013 Bleech, Bethnal Green
  • 22.06.2013 Battle Stage Final
  • 09.06.2013 Tibetan Tea Company, Romford
  • 26.05.2013 Battle Stage 3
  • 25.05.2013 Muse, Highbury
  • 21.05.2013 Dirty Royals, Islington
  • 18.05.2013 Mika Bomb, Southend
  • 18.05.2013 Battle Stage 2
  • 27.04.2013 Battle Stage 1
  • 06.04.2013 Dingus Khan, Southend
  • 16.03.2013 Republica, Tunbridge Wells
  • 09.03.2013 Phoenix In The Foyer
  • 27.02.2013 Kaiser Chiefs, Cambridge
  • 26.02.2013 Bleech, Cambridge
  • 19.02.2013 History Of Apple Pie, Shoreditch
  • 12.02.2013 Sonic Boom Six, Southend
  • 06.02.2013 The 1975, Southend
  • 25.01.2013 Archetype, Brentwood
  • 02.12.2012 Lighting Up Shenfield
  • 01.12.2012 Lighting Up Brentwood
  • 24.11.2012 Lovely Eggs, Southend
  • 20.11.2012 Focus, Chislehurst
  • 10.11.2012 Carter USM, Brixton
  • 03.11.2012 Taffy, Clerkenwell
  • 02.11.2012 Bleech, Harlow
  • 27.10.2012 Phoenix In The Foyer 2
  • 15.09.2012 Phoenix In The Foyer 1
  • 01.08.2012 Blur, Margate
  • 08.07.2012 Brentwood Festival
  • 29.06.2012 Bis, Pentonville
  • 22.06.2012 Knifeworld, Pentonville
  • 08.06.2012 Jim Bob, Bedford
  • 02.06.2012 Coldplay, Highbury
  • 30.05.2012 Evans The Death, Chelmsford
  • 11.05.2012 The Others, Putney
  • 04.05.2012 BAS II, Basildon
  • 29.04.2012 Break For Cover, Ingatestone
  • 18.03.2012 The Brownies, Shoreditch
  • 24.02.2012 Neil Hannon, Felsted
  • 29.01.2012 Kaiser Chiefs, Westcliff

  • Interviews

  • 28.06.1996 Frank and Walters
  • 01.07.2006 Sultans of Ping

  • Random writings

  • Aris Salonica
  • Lake Margaretting

  • Essex Walks

  • 1. Goldhanger
  • 2. Downham