Trans-Siberian Part 2: Warsaw

I managed to have four hours in Warsaw before the next train. I've only been to Poland once, to Krakow a few years ago and I was expecting another Brothers-Grimm style old gothic fairytale of a town. I didn't expect to see a place with so many skyscrapers, so much open space between the skyscrapers (you don't get that in New York) and so few old buildings. The last part is obviously a direct consequence of the way the city suffered in World War II and it takes something like to realise how much damage they would have received, because so much of the city has started from scratch. I walked around for a bit from Centralna station up to Ogrod Saski park where some kind of military parade was being held. *Now* I'm in the former Soviet bloc!

The modern parts of the city at least showed a lot of imagination.

There was a lot of building work for the Warsaw metro. If I was a UKIP-supporting ignoramus I'd say something about all the Polish builders "being over here" but they clearly aren't.

I think I found the world's poshest toilet too. Is loo a word understood in Poland?

No idea how to pronounce this. "Naleczow" is probably a long way wide of the mark.

Tonight's train journey was going to be a bit more of a challenge - about 17 hours on the train, in a 3-berth again measuring 6 feet by 4 feet. This is the longest single journey I've had and will be the longest until Tuesday night when I do my 100-hour marathon. As it turned out I was sharing this time with a married couple, Vitaly and Olga (can you come up with a more Russian pairing than that?) who had been visiting friends in Berlin and decided to get the train back to Sevastopol in the Crimea. Luckily they spoke English (they were Russian speakers themselves, not Ukrainian) and helped me out with a few things, especially with the left luggage lockers at Kiev which were unnecessarily complicated. Vitaly was also a football fan, supporting his local team, FK Sevastopol, so I was heartened not to be talking with a glory-hunter. He knew a lot about West Ham too. The downside was that there was no restaurant car on the train, so the only thing available to drink was tea without milk, which was surprisingly nice and cheap (about 40p a cup). In a proper Eastern European cup too!

I didn't sleep very well on the train - the Ukrainian customs and border police came on board at around 10.40pm and then we spent three hours through customs checks (they went through and spoke to everyone, this isn't Western Europe) and then we had a fun couple of hours while the train changed bogies in the fitting shed so that we could carry on along the old USSR railway gauges.



Next:     Trans-Siberian Part 3: Kiev
Previous:     Trans-Siberian Part 1: Billericay to Cologne

Last updated 01 June 2013 12:54

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I think I'm meant to do an "About" here but I think you'd be more interested in seeing a random seagull.

Trans-Siberian

  • Introduction
  • Part 1: Billericay to Cologne
  • Part 2: Warsaw
  • Part 3: Kiev
  • Part 4: The train to Moscow
  • Part 5: The Ostankino Tower
  • Part 6: Around VDNZh park
  • Part 7: Museum of Soviet Arcade Machines
  • Part 8: The Moscow Metro
  • Part 9: Moscow city centre
  • Part 10: Random Moscow
  • Part 11: Leaving for Siberia
  • Part 12: Moscow to Perm
  • Part 13: Yekaterinburg to Novosibirsk
  • Part 14: Tayga to Nizhneudinsk
  • Part 15: Lake Baikal to Mongolia
  • Part 16: Crossing the Russia/Mongolia border
  • Part 17: Exploring Ulaanbaatar
  • Part 18: A great big statue of Ghengis Khan
  • Part 19: The Zaisan Monument
  • Part 20: Beers from many lands

  • Gigs

  • 08.12.2015 Shed Seven, Hatfield
  • 27.11.2015 Vile Electrodes, Brentwood
  • 07.11.2015 Asylums, Southend
  • 30.10.2015 Baby Blues, Brentwood
  • 02.10.2015 Fireworks, Harringay
  • 25.09.2015 Lydia Lucy, Brentwood
  • 28.08.2015 Dani Clay, Brentwood
  • 24.07.2015 Indietracks
  • 17.07.2015 Latitude Festival
  • 11.07.2015 Brownstock Festival
  • 11.07.2015 Southend Village Green
  • 26.06.2015 The Who, Hyde Park
  • 20.06.2015 Blur, Hyde Park
  • 13.06.2015 British Sea Power, Camden
  • 06.06.2015 1000 Yard Stare, Charing Cross
  • 03.06.2015 Madness, Great Leights
  • 31.05.2015 Los Endos, Hornchurch
  • 29.05.2015 Juke, Brentwood
  • 28.05.2015 Pop Will Eat Itself, Shoreditch
  • 24.05.2015 Ride, Camden
  • 24.04.2015 Kaleidophone, Brentwood
  • 27.03.2015 Finding Miranda, Brentwood
  • 13.03.2015 Francesca Priest, Brentwood
  • 13.02.2015 Kaiser Chiefs, Greenwich
  • 06.02.2015 Ryan Green, Brentwood
  • 31.01.2015 Sulk - Hackney
  • 23.01.2015 Velvet Tree, Brentwood
  • 11.01.2015 Bis, Pentonville
  • 19.12.2014 High/Low, Southend
  • 12.12.2014 Break For Cover, Brentwood
  • 28.11.2014 For The Love Of Bob, Brentwood
  • 22.11.2014 Carter USM, Brixton
  • 31.10.2014 Band From Co Hell, Brentwood
  • 28.10.2014 Steve Hackett, Westcliff
  • 20.10.2014 Hafdis Huld, Charing Cross
  • 11.10.2014 Stillmarillion, Ruislip
  • 26.09.2014 D'Ukes, Brentwood
  • 13.09.2014 Flag Factory Festival, Brentwood
  • 03.09.2014 Kate Bush, Shepherd's Bush
  • 30.08.2014 Brownstock Festival
  • 08.08.2014 Killing Jimmy, Brentwood
  • 20.07.2014 Brentwood Festival
  • 19.07.2014 Latitude Festival
  • 18.07.2014 Juke, Brentwood
  • 20.06.2014 Pete Brame, Brentwood
  • 30.05.2014 Bow Flats, Brentwood
  • 25.05.2014 Pop Will Eat Itself, Islington
  • 23.05.2014 Arctic Monkeys, Finsbury Park
  • 14.05.2014 Wolf Alice, Cambridge
  • 30.04.2014 Yes, Westcliff
  • 25.04.2014 Ordinary Noise, Brentwood
  • 19.04.2014 Darling Buds, Charing Cross
  • 28.03.2014 Mannequins, Brentwood
  • 26.03.2014 Menswear, Shepherd's Bush
  • 23.03.2014 Republica, Islington
  • 14.03.2014 Franz Ferdinand, Camden
  • 28.02.2014 Ryan Green, Brentwood
  • 27.02.2014 Republica, Balham
  • 03.02.2014 Maximo Park, Bethnal Green
  • 31.01.2014 Scarlet Echo, Brentwood
  • 22.11.2013 Nedstock, Shepherd's Bush
  • 18.11.2013 Pub Serv Bcasting, Cambridge
  • 04.11.2013 Art Brut, Tunbridge Wells
  • 01.11.2013 Steve Hackett, Cambridge
  • 23.10.2013 Suede, Westcliff
  • 27.09.2013 Primitives, Southend
  • 21.09.2013 Duckworth Lewis Method, SB
  • 14.09.2013 The Flag Factory Festival
  • 06.09.2013 Jonny Cola/A Grades, Harlow
  • 25.07.2013 Bis, Pentonville
  • 19.07.2013 Latitude Festival
  • 17.07.2013 Taffy, Camden
  • 05.07.2013 Brentwood Festival
  • 26.06.2013 Bleech, Bethnal Green
  • 22.06.2013 Battle Stage Final
  • 09.06.2013 Tibetan Tea Company, Romford
  • 26.05.2013 Battle Stage 3
  • 25.05.2013 Muse, Highbury
  • 21.05.2013 Dirty Royals, Islington
  • 18.05.2013 Mika Bomb, Southend
  • 18.05.2013 Battle Stage 2
  • 27.04.2013 Battle Stage 1
  • 06.04.2013 Dingus Khan, Southend
  • 16.03.2013 Republica, Tunbridge Wells
  • 09.03.2013 Phoenix In The Foyer
  • 27.02.2013 Kaiser Chiefs, Cambridge
  • 26.02.2013 Bleech, Cambridge
  • 19.02.2013 History Of Apple Pie, Shoreditch
  • 12.02.2013 Sonic Boom Six, Southend
  • 06.02.2013 The 1975, Southend
  • 25.01.2013 Archetype, Brentwood
  • 02.12.2012 Lighting Up Shenfield
  • 01.12.2012 Lighting Up Brentwood
  • 24.11.2012 Lovely Eggs, Southend
  • 20.11.2012 Focus, Chislehurst
  • 10.11.2012 Carter USM, Brixton
  • 03.11.2012 Taffy, Clerkenwell
  • 02.11.2012 Bleech, Harlow
  • 27.10.2012 Phoenix In The Foyer 2
  • 15.09.2012 Phoenix In The Foyer 1
  • 01.08.2012 Blur, Margate
  • 08.07.2012 Brentwood Festival
  • 29.06.2012 Bis, Pentonville
  • 22.06.2012 Knifeworld, Pentonville
  • 08.06.2012 Jim Bob, Bedford
  • 02.06.2012 Coldplay, Highbury
  • 30.05.2012 Evans The Death, Chelmsford
  • 11.05.2012 The Others, Putney
  • 04.05.2012 BAS II, Basildon
  • 29.04.2012 Break For Cover, Ingatestone
  • 18.03.2012 The Brownies, Shoreditch
  • 24.02.2012 Neil Hannon, Felsted
  • 29.01.2012 Kaiser Chiefs, Westcliff

  • Interviews

  • 28.06.1996 Frank and Walters
  • 01.07.2006 Sultans of Ping

  • Random writings

  • Aris Salonica
  • Lake Margaretting

  • Essex Walks

  • 1. Goldhanger
  • 2. Downham